Clothing Poverty and the Trans Wardrobe

For transgender and gender non-conforming individuals, clothing can carry additional financial, social and psychological significance. Transitioning can mean having to reconsider a wardrobe that may have taken years to build. Clothes that are still perfectly wearable may no longer be comfortable, nor accurately represent how that person feels about themselves, not to mention the potential expense of replacing an entire wardrobe.

There are also the practical problems of finding garments that fit. Most mainstream clothing is still separated into men’s and women’s sections, and designed using standardised measurements based around typically male or female body proportions. Research into clothing fit among transgender people has found ready-to-wear garments do not accommodate the bodies of the people expected to wear them¹.

This creates a new form of clothing poverty that is not necessarily as obvious as simply owning too few clothes. Someone may have a wardrobe full of clothing and still feel as if they have little to actually wear.

An Entirely New Wardrobe

We spoke with Imogen Lidbetter, the founder of Image In, a Community Interest Company (CIC) based in the Southeast of England, that helps transgender and gender non-conforming individuals find and style clothing that not only fits but also flatters their body shape, as starting up an entirely new wardrobe can be daunting.

When asked about clothing poverty within the transgender community, Lidbetter explained the issue through a question she often poses to cisgender (someone whose gender identity matches the sex they were assigned at birth) people:

“Imagine one day you wake up and your entire wardrobe is empty all of a sudden. How much money do you think that would take to replace?”

It is difficult to put an exact figure on it.

A wardrobe is usually something people build gradually. A jacket bought several winters ago is still hanging by the door, pyjamas remain wearable for years and old T-shirts become clothes to wear around the house. Lidbetter describes these as “legacy clothes” – collecting what we have over time without really thinking about the financial value of having them available.

For someone transitioning, some of those clothes may no longer feel appropriate to wear. Even when a garment fits, it may be associated with a gendered presentation that they no longer feel comfortable with. And replacing the clothes may happen more than once.

Lidbetter also explains that someone in their early transition might initially buy clothes simply because they are excited to finally dress in a way that better represents them. However, a few years later, their personal style or body might have changed, or they may simply realise that the things they bought are no longer clothes they actually like. This means that building a wardrobe can become an ongoing expense rather than a one-off clothing trip.

Garments themselves are not the only cost. Depending on the individual, there may also be expenses for shoes, accessories, makeup or specialised garments like chest binders, alongside healthcare costs. As Lidbetter highlights, clothing can therefore become increasingly deprioritised financially, despite a person needing them every day².

More than Gender-Affirming Clothing

When discussing clothing and transgender people, gender-affirming garments, such as chest binders, are often one of the first things that come to mind.

That said, Lidbetter is keen to point out that this is only one part of the issue. “All clothing is gender-affirming clothing, in one way or another.” she said. A jumper is not marked as gender-affirming healthcare, nor jeans, trainers or a winter coat. However, the way in which those items fit and present someone’s body can still affect how they feel about themselves and how other people perceive them.

Academic research supports the broader relationship between clothing and identity. Clothing is a way of visually expressing identity and communicates information to other people about the wearer. Previous research shows that dress and appearance can form part of the process through which transgender people construct and present their gender identity³. Research focusing specifically on transgender clothing experiences has found similar themes. Tullio-Pow, Yaworski and Kincaid describe clothing as something transgender people can use strategically during transition to achieve a desired appearance and gender presentation. Their participants discussed experimenting with different styles, fabrics and silhouettes to find clothing that both fitted their bodies and reflected their identity⁴.

Clothing can also create a sense of social belonging. A literature review written by Whiteley in 2024 suggests gender-affirming clothing may help transgender people express membership of their affirmed gender and feel more comfortable in their social identity, which supports the findings of the academics mentioned. However, the review also notes that direct academic research into the psychological effects of gender-affirming clothing remains relatively limited⁵.

Clothing Fitting and the Shopping Experience

Clothing fit is another barrier. A 2019 study of 90 transgender and gender non-conforming participants found many experienced reoccurring problems with the cut, size and fit of ready-to-wear clothing. Participants also described using clothing to conceal or emphasise parts of their body as part of their gender presentation¹.

These issues are reflected in Lidbetter’s own experience. She noted that some trans men struggle to find men’s trousers that fit comfortably around the hips, while trans women may have difficulty finding feminine shoes in larger sizes. Shopping can be stressful in and of itself, particularly when navigating gendered changing rooms or asking staff for assistance.

This is part of what Image In aims to address. The CIC provides donated clothing, a private changing space and various styling advice, allowing people to experiment with clothes without the financial pressure of buying everything they try. [For more information, you can explore Image In’s website here.]

Summary

Clothing poverty is not always about having no clothes. For transgender and gender non-conforming people, it can also mean owning clothes that no longer feel wearable, struggling to find garments that fit, or being unable to afford the cost of rebuilding a wardrobe.

Making clothing more accessible therefore means considering not only price, but fit, sizing, retail environments and whether people feel truly welcome using the services available to them.

References

1. Reilly, Catalpa & McGuire (2019). Clothing Fit Issues for Trans People.

2. Lidbetter, I. (2026). Interview.

3. Strübel & Goswami (2022). Clothing and Self Concept in Cisgender and Transgender Individuals.

4. Tulio-Pow, Yaworski & Kincaid (2021). Transgender fashion: Fit challenges and dressing strategies.

5. Whiteley (2024). Strands of Transgender Identity: A literature review on sense of belonging through gender-affirming clothing.

Cover photo by Lia Bekyan on Unsplash